Day 22: Cinco de Hike-o

When I stopped for a snack at one of the shelters yesterday, a local guy who was thru hiking told me that he's seen and heard of more bear activity in this area than any other, including the Smokies. I didn't mention this because I didn't want to freak out my mother. Well, last night, I was planning to sleep without my earplugs for the "big bear activity" reason. Then, as I laid me down to sleep, there were so many catapillars and beetles and other "heavy" bugs walking around in the noisy leaves (seriously, even the snsllest things make big noise in the dry leaves) that I popped the plugs back in and faded off to dreamland... Obviously I survived the night. And everything was fine when I woke up. Food was there and camp was untouched.

Right before I got out of my tent this morning, two of the three guys tenting back at the campsite were walking by. Good morning! Good morning! Much much later, I caught up with them and they told me that a bear had been through the third guy's (Kindling's) camp (it was 30 yards away or so from them). A little too close for comfort!! (but glad I slept ignorantly)



So, today was the day of a hundred breaks. I got to walking by 8:15 and soon took a break to pee, then to fix my shoe, then to get water, then to stop to talk to another hiker who has just gotten back on the trail after TWELVE days off, then to pee again, then to take a few photos, then to have tea and crumpets with the Queen*, then to have a snack, then to put on sunscreen, then to talk to a trail maintenance guy and his wife who had trekked a chain saw up with them to cut through logs on the trail (HUGE thank you was given and a shout out to all the wonderful trail maintainers!! We couldn't do it without you! And I promise to volunteer at some point after I'm all done...), then to fix my poles, then to get water again, then to sit down and have a Subway footlong with Bill Bryson*, then to have another snack, then to have a nice looooooong break in the sun a few miles south of Big Bald. I ate, drank (water), and was merry for a good hour and 40 minutes. Then back to the trail and not many breaks after that. (*daydreaming)



Climbed up to Big Bald (ooooWEE - what a climb!), which was very similar to Max Patch, but higher and more mountainy. (?) Beautiful day, so there were stunning panoramic views. Also, the chipmunks were out today! I must've seen a dozen or so. Or at least a dozen or so little chipmunk butts scampering away...



Kept going, as I wanted to get in another long day. Passed Big Bald Shelter, then headed downhill for a bit before climbing Little Bald. Little Bald isn't really bald, but it is very pointy. All my hiking sounds from climbing it (including my "breathing-whistling" of Wade in the Water) must've been muffled from the other side because when I got to the summit, I paused and took a few breaths. Took a sip of water. Then started back downhill. About 10 steps into my descent, I stepped on a stick and broke it. It made a fairly loud noise.... and so did the young bear about 20 yards away that I had startled. Oh yes. A bear. It took off downhill at a pace that seemed waaaay to fast to maintain uprightedness (word?), and I was sure I wouldn't be seeing that bear again. Non-national-park bears are definitely more scared of us than we are of them. I was absolutely a little freaked out (more than the deer the other night), so I stopped for a second to take it in and then I kept walking, turned up the volume of my Wade in the Water whistling, and began to whack my hiking poles together every 50 paces or so as I went. The bear had headed down and to the left. The trail went down and to the right. Then it turned back towards the bear, passing old hollowed-out trees and big boulders (perfect bear hiding places...?), then it switched back to the right, then back towards the bear direction, and then finally it led way right until right became my new straight. I was headed far away from where the bear was headed.

It was probably 150 lbs and was black. At first I thought (assumed?) it was a dog, but I am now 99% sure I saw a bear. And unless I get to Erwin and see a poster for a lost dog with the following description:

Lost bear-like dog. His name is "Little Bear." Also responds to "Bear," "Bear Dog," "Teddy," or "Wow That Dog Looks Like A Bear." Black fur. Walks like a bear. Growls like a bear. Has been shot at many times because folks think he's a bear. Likes honey...

...unless I see that, then I'm positive I saw a bear.

Check that off the AT list! I wouldn't mind if I didn't see another one. Now I'm camping alone again, and will definitely put the earplugs in again. Will probably dream about bears tonight. Hopefully will NOT wake up to one licking my face...

If you never see this post, it means I was EATEN!!! (night)

(20)


-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Campsite near mile 325