Day 28: Itchy

Well, my poison ivy is getting kind of annoying. And I unintentially pulled off a layer of skin off my left heel last night before bed while un-bandaging my blister. But other than that, I'm good. Woke up early because it began to sprinkle. Delayed getting out of the tent until it stopped and started and stopped and started and then began to rain a bit. Quickly got myself in gear and packed up the tent. Had a quick breakfast with the group in the shelter and then did what I could with the heel. I think this should be the last round of hurt with that heel. The right one seems to have finally callused (sp?) over. The left one is about a week behind.


So! Adam (we tried to call him "Cuddles" but he pointed out that he never actually cuddled anyone on this trip... despite sharing a tent with Robert) and Robert/Iron Horse led the way to the end of their AT-cation, with me and Backwards in tow. The threat of rain went away, and it turned into a nice day! A short 6 miles later, and we were at the road to the Kincora hostel. Backwards kept moving on the trail (I was sure I'd run into him at trail days in Demascus, tho his trip will end there - sad face), and we took our exit back to Adam's car. I dropped my pack and the three of us headed into town for lunch.


Pizza Plus had an all-you-can-eat pizza and salad buffet that we crushed. Probably too much, but good and filling. They drove me to the Dollar General where I resupplied and then right up back to the hostel. (no phone service for four days and then only while in town?!! maybe it'll be better in VA...?) They got on the road shortly after, and I was sad to see them go... Good times! I hope they had a great AT experience (they got mountains, snow, rain, cool AT hikers, hostels, all-you-can-eat, and pooping in the woods*, so that's pretty much everything!). Robert/Iron Horse had found a four-leaf clover somewhere along the way and he gave it to me before leaving. I shall keep it in my AT book for luck. Thanks Peej!
(*note: Adam somehow avoided this with ultra marathoner mind control...)



There's a great big group of kids here at the hostel now, and I'm lucky to have a bed. Many hikers are racing to make it to Demascus, VA for the big Trail Days festival this weekend, so most places have been crowded. I had planned on a zero tomorrow, but since I feel like I had today off, I'll probably keep moving (after sleeping in late and eating a big breakfast). Two hikers made an enormous pasta dinner for everyone and we all stuffed our faces. Communal candy, sodas, and jokes were passed around and there's a nice excitement in the air. Oh, and Little Foot, Pee-Wee and Yetti have caught me! Good to see them again and catch up.

I've laundered everything and ointmented my poison ivy. We will see what the heel looks like tomorrow, and hope the oily itchy PI spots shrink down and dry up. I can handle the itching; I just don't want it to spread!

Not sure what tomorrow will be, but there's a 20-50 percent chance of showers/thunderstorms for the rest of the week. Hope it holds off for Trail Days!!

(6)


-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Kincora Hostel

Day 27: Blaze Awareness

There are white "blazes" on trees and rocks all the way along the trail to let hikers know they're still on track. It's pretty cool that a person could potentially (and many do) walk from Georgia to Maine without a map. The blazes usually occur about 50-200 yards apart and are fairly consistent. More on this after breakfast...

Breakfast was ohmygoodnesssooooo good! Biscuits, gravy, shrimp, grits, French toast, two egg dishes, fruit, yogurt, sticky buns, bacon wrapped asparagus, potatoes, honey ham, oj and tea/coffee. Right!!?! It was amazing, and we all woke up early to feast. I think it was better than the blueberry patch!


We hung around inside the B&B and watched the weather report before packing up our slightly wet tents (it got cold and wet last night by the stream, so there was a bit of condensation...), and then we were off! At ten. (and we began breakfast at 7:30...!?) Robert/Iron Horse was raring to go (see photo).

But off we were. Backwards stayed with us and we began what was going to ge a long, but fairly easy day. Nice cool weather and a good pace, but about a mile or two in, I was leading, and we got to a hill. There were two other hikers who stopped to let us pass. Morning! We got to the top and didn't see a blaze. There was, however, an arrow in the dirt that said "AT -->." We followed and eventually found the trail going off to the right. We followed it down in what seemed like a circle and came out at a hill that looked just like the one we'd gone up a bit ago. We weren't convinced, so we continued on until we realized that we'd gotten turned around. Robert/Iron Horse was threatening to just keep going back to the hostel, but we had to figure this out. I hiked back up to a sign I saw with N and S on it and realized that we were indeed hiking the wrong way! Aparently, those two hikers who had stopped to let us pass were blocking the blaze sign that told us to take a sharp right in the middle of the hill! What are the chances...? Ugh. So we went back up the correct way and finally got to where the trail was supposed to go. Though I felt bad that I had been leading, I think it was just one of those things... bound to happen.


Back to walking. We passed a turn-off to a waterfall and three of us checked it out while Robert/Iron Horse walked on ahead. Lovely and high falls and a lovely couple from Florida/Colorado. Since they were going south, they gave us distance tips, extra bars, and perscription ointment (she was a nurse) for my poison ivy. (yep - I managed to get some on my left foot, with flecks on my legs and one arm... boo me, but yay ointment!!)


Kept walking till we caught up with Robert/Iron Horse. Snacked at a shelter. Kept moving. Played a few games while walking. Powder and Russell joined in. And we eventually made it to the shelter! Biggest day yet with Adam and Robert/Iron Horse. 18.2 miles. (plus maybe .8 miles of doubleback...) Oh, and in the way, I passed the FOUR HUNDRED MILE marker -a stream (see photo).

The group that calls themselves "chicken pot pie" was there (Tiny Dancer, Salty, Mister T, Hot Sauce) and we set up our tents since they were in the small shelter. There was a chance of rain, but there always is... Nice big fire. Good chatter. Mac n cheese with bacon bits. The DC guys brought dehydrated ice cream and we all shared it. Bed.

Pretty tired. But only 6 miles to the Kincora hostel in the morning!

(18.2)


-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Mooreland Gap Shelter

Day 26: Cold and Bald

Woke up to a frosty shelter and a frozen water bottle. The thermometer read 30, and we all believed it. Backwards came downstairs (he was the only one who stayed up in the loft), and we all cooked warm breakfasts with our sleeping bags on. Hard to get moving when it's so cold, though we all know that moving is what will help the most!

Powder and Russell took off early and, about 40 minutes later, Backwards was off, too. We three DC kids strapped on our packs and left 10 minutes later around 9. We were going to try to make it a long day, but there was much talk about a hostel off US 19 that had a fanTAStic breakfast... We were thinking about it... But first we had to hike.



Downhill through the frosty trees and bits of snow in the air... Then up over the first blustery bald. Then down, then up over another. We caught up with Backwards at the next shelter, and we all had a snack (mostly of his huge bag of peanut M&Ms, yum). We found out via southbounders that there was a HUGE trail magic "party" at the Overmountain shelter - the one that Brian and Xan were pushing on to... Apparently there was chili and grilled cheese and beer and chicken and who KNOWS what else. We were all a bit bummed that we had missed it, but kind of excited at the thought of such amazing fun. (I hope Xan and Brian got in on that action!) We hiked on with Backwards (me with three guys again!!), and when we passed the turnoff for Overmountain shelter, I just haaaad to go check it out to see if there were leftovers, even though it was .3 miles off the trail. I just had to see! Robert/Iron Horse was going to press on at his pace and let us catch him, so Adam, Backwards and I headed down.

There was no chicken, but there was a bag of baby carrots, two large bags of raw peanuts, four rolls of TP, a few grapes, and eight cucumbers. Leftovers score! We ate from the remaining selection (and read a very interesting shelter register entry about a guy seeing himself dancing in the flames of the fire) before another group of hikers came by for a break. We got on our way with bellies full of semi-random treats (and a pocket full of peanuts for Robert/Iron Horse), and we caught up with Robert/Iron Horse who had stopped for a lunch break. He was surprised there had been food but grateful he didn't go out of his way for cucumbers.



We stopped with him for a few minutes before the push over the final balds of the day. Good climbs and BEAUTIFUL 360 views! Very blustery and strong winds, but gorgeous. Robert/Iron Horse caught up and kept going while Adam, Backwards and I took another break to take it all in. It was another "day of a hundred breaks."

When we caught up again, Robert/Iron Horse was leading the way downhill through the roots and rocks towards US 19. By now, we were sold on the idea of tenting at the hostel and joining in on the fab breakfast in the morning. Long downhill cruise (Robert/Iron Horse had hit his stride by now!) and we made it to the hostel around 6:30. Threw our stuff down to catch a ride to the Subway, and there were many familiar faces filing out of the sandwhich shop to get a ride back. Powder was one of them, and he was the main salesman of the hostel/breakfast, I think...

We feasted on subs and picked up a few snacks before calling for a ride back. Sticks and Bones showed up at the Subway and we sold them on the breakfast, too. They got a return ride with us. Back at the beautiful homestead, we all set up camp, cleaned up and soon started chatting and snacking. Lots of kids tenting, so many will be at breakfast. Backwards, Adam, Robert/Iron Horse and I crushed a slab of Oreos and milk and a few Oatmeal cream pies and joked it up - mostly listening and laughing at Robert/Iron Horse's hilarious stories... Good times. The temperature is dropping, but I doubt there will be snow in the morning (frost...?). I can't wait for breakfast!!! It should be like Blueberry Patch all over again!

(15.9)



-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Mountain Harbour B&B / Hostel

Day 25: Holy Roan!

After about an hour of giggles last night (Adam woke up to join, but Roadrunner slept through it all...) we were asleep. And we woke up early because it started to pour rain on the tin roof around 5:45. Must've been a nice alarm clock for the dozen people tenting! (including Xan and Brian) Glad we decided on the shelter...


It got foggy and rainy, and no one wanted to go anywhere. Around 8am we finally started moving. The rain was intermittent, and the sun was trying hard to break through. Slowly we packed up and left around 9:20, and it stayed dry for the rest of the day, and sun eventually came out.

A bit of a tough morning with climbs, but Adam and I made it to a shelter for a lunch break and snacked big time, waiting for our third. Robert/PJ huffed it in (after over-shooting the shelter sign and climbing a hill only to descend), threw down his pack, went directly over to a block of cheese (knife beside), cut himself a huge chunk and popped it in his mouth while Adam and I said "it's not ours!" He mumbled "I don't care if it's a little mushy," and thought we'd said "it's not hard." There were four other hikers snacking behind the shelter, and their stuff was spread around. It was pretty funny... (if you were there...?) Minutes later, Robert/PJ brought out a can of sardines, which I tried, and I realize that I quite enjoy sardines with crackers! Not sure if I had ever tried them before. Now I may have to buy a can or two at some point...

The afternoon was when the real climbing would be. The last 3 miles climbed 2000 feet! Robert/PJ was going at a slower pace, and Adam and I took off. We caught up to Xan and Brian on Little Knob. They had a later start than we did in the morning, but they didn't stop at the shelter for lunch. Passed them, but knew they'd catch back up. Got a bit of trail magic from two ladies in a minivan with at least 3 kids on the back. They were waiting at the road to see a "real thru hiker." We got a handfull of dried blueberries and a Clementine each - perfect energy for the climb - and then they drove off. Funny.

I'm not sure what I expected as for climbing Roan Mountain, but I think it was the steepest, longest-sustained climb so far on the AT. It was pretty brutal and it KEPT GOING!! Energizer bunny mountain, of sorts... Adam and I stopped for water (at a water source where we had to go [seemed like] half a mile downhill before getting to it!?! Bad choice...) and Xan and Brian caught up. They were doing another 20-miler because one of Brian's friends would be meeting up with them tomorrow.

It was getting cold out, too. The wind was whipping the trees around, and the temperature at the higher altitude was definitely cooler. There actually is a freeze warning out tonight. (I almost sent my beanie home in hot springs!)


So Adam and I charged up, taking few breaks, but we stopped to leave an encouraging note for Robert, and soon we had finally made it to the highest shelter on the AT (6,275 feet). Amazingly, it has FOUR WALLS with a DOOR and an upstairs. Cute little cabin thing. A hiker named "Backwards" was here, but no one else. We'd heard that a bunch of people were going to bypass this shelter because it was going to be so cold tonight. We wanted to stay in it. Tomorrow morning, though cold, should be all downhill...

Adam and I made dinner and chatted with "Backwards" (from Golden, Colorado! (shout out to Conner)), and right as we were finishing, Robert walked in (note: he now would like to be called "Iron Horse"). We all got settled in the warmer-than-outside shelter, and "Powder" showed up with his dog, Russell. More chatting and eating and now we're all cozy in sleeping bags. Sounds so blustery outside!! I hope it isn't too cold in the morning, but I have a feeling it will be... maybe more snow...? (brrr)

(15.6)



-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Roan High Knob Shelter

Day 24: Hiking, DC Style

Adam and Robert got here bright and early at 6:56am. I had just rolled out of bed and rolled outside to say hi. They looked all ready to go with fresh McDonalds in hand! I had to organize myself and the food box my mom sent with them, and I had to scarf down a few brownies she sent too. Delicious breakfast!! (thanks so much mom - best brownies ever!)





Before I knew it, we were off and hiking. And it was nice and flat - very beautiful to start out the day, and easy for the newcomers. We stopped for a snack here and there and had a few hot hours walking in the sun. A large section seemed to have been recently burned in a fire, so there was little canopy overhead. Hot sun. We took a long lunch break at the next water source and then took off on the 1000 foot climb up Unaka Mountain. Brutal, but overwith. At the top, tho, there were glorious and beautiful spruce trees and amazingly satisfying shade. We re-grouped and headed back downhill. Adam and I saw a snake on the way.






Finally made it to the shelter around 5pm and chilled out. Roadrunner was there and we chatted with him. Got water and made dinner while a few other hikers rolled in. After dinner and clean-up, Xan and Brian showed up! All my boys together now!!

We all hung out while they organized and cooked, and Adam and Roadrunner were the first ones down. Robert (temporary trail name: PJ) was down next, and i'm still blogging while Xan and Brian finish up. They plan to do 20 miles tomorrow, but we plan to do 15 to get up to the highest shelter on the trail at Roan Mountain. Should be lots of climbing, but pretty.

Off to join the snorers...

(17)


-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Cherry Gap Shelter

Day 23: Alive

Woke up early from a non-bear dream, but rolled around till the sun came up over the hill. Bear bag intact. All limbs intact. No sign of bears at all. Just another day in the forest!

I was hiking by 8, and looking forward to a less-than-20-mile day. Nice walk, nice morning. Snacked a bunch and made good time.



Came across a guy walking slowly on the trail in one gap. As I got closer, I realized he was in all cammo and his extra tall hiking staff was actually a rifle slung over his shoulder. Good morning! from afar - don't want to startle the guy with the gun!!

The hunter: "Have you heard any [insert specific bird name that sounds like "Wharling Garbles"]??"

"Don't think so. What do they sound like?"

"Garble garble garble..." (makes the name seem more appropriate)

I hadn't heard any of those sounds from birds... none I had noted anyways. Onwards I went. Eventually I got to the No Business Shelter and had a snack. The local guy I had met earlier ("Bodacious") caught up and snacked with me. He's thru hiked a few times, so we chatted all things AT.


Soon enough, I was on my way. Heading mostly downhill to Erwin. There was a phone ringing in the woods... I picked it up... it was a hot shower calling... and it was for me.

Got to Erwin by 3 and took care of business. (side note: standing in the store, waiting to sign in to Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel, I was standing with my feet crossed over each other real closely-like... (giggling at the thought while typing this out...) somehow I managed to get the lace from one boot caught on the hook of the other boot, and so my feet were stuck together. As I tried to move one (ha!) the other did the same, and I ended up toppling over onto a box in the little store area. What a work of art I am... Hard to recover from that one. I couldn't stop (can't stop) laughing at what I must've looked like... Geez... Should be a sizeable bruise on my left thigh, but no injuries.)

Aaaaanyways... There was a guy named Gene whose wife is on the trail ("Sweet T" - I think I mentioned her at one point...?) and he offered to take a few of us into town. Great! Stopped at the Dollar General, the IGA, and a few other places before heading back.

Guess who was there when I got back... Brian and Xan! They'd done a THIRTY MILER yesterday, hiking into the night and camping cowboy-style (just a skeeping bag) on Big Bald. Impressive, boys! Apparently, some other guys had hauled up two cases of beer to the top and shared with them while a faint meteor shower played out overhead until 1am. Must've been magical... So they crept in, hurting and dirty and unluckily finding no cheap rooms still available here. After picking up their packages and exchanging quick stories with me, they took off to hitch into town. Maybe a cheap hotel room to ease their aches... Oh, and the all-you-can-eat buffet at KFC (I've never HEARD of such a thing!!?!). I hope they're having a nice night... tho they're probably already sleeping.



Remarkably, no cell phone reception at the hostel, but free wireless. Adam and Robert are staying the night at the Kincora hostel in Hampton. They'll get a short ride over here tomorrow morning (makes all the walking seem SO inefficient!), and we will take off on the trail for four days to get back there. I'll zero in Hampton, and that will be nice. Hopefully, Xan and Brian will catch us (of course they will) on the trail, and we will have a night or two as a big ole group. Brian has a friend meeting up with him on Monday, I think... And Mick caught up with them in Hot Springs, so maybe he'll be back in the blog again soon!

Looking forward to hearing stories from DC and maybe a few interesting current events... I feel so out of the loop!

(14.9)


-- Posted from the trail...

Day 22: Cinco de Hike-o

When I stopped for a snack at one of the shelters yesterday, a local guy who was thru hiking told me that he's seen and heard of more bear activity in this area than any other, including the Smokies. I didn't mention this because I didn't want to freak out my mother. Well, last night, I was planning to sleep without my earplugs for the "big bear activity" reason. Then, as I laid me down to sleep, there were so many catapillars and beetles and other "heavy" bugs walking around in the noisy leaves (seriously, even the snsllest things make big noise in the dry leaves) that I popped the plugs back in and faded off to dreamland... Obviously I survived the night. And everything was fine when I woke up. Food was there and camp was untouched.

Right before I got out of my tent this morning, two of the three guys tenting back at the campsite were walking by. Good morning! Good morning! Much much later, I caught up with them and they told me that a bear had been through the third guy's (Kindling's) camp (it was 30 yards away or so from them). A little too close for comfort!! (but glad I slept ignorantly)



So, today was the day of a hundred breaks. I got to walking by 8:15 and soon took a break to pee, then to fix my shoe, then to get water, then to stop to talk to another hiker who has just gotten back on the trail after TWELVE days off, then to pee again, then to take a few photos, then to have tea and crumpets with the Queen*, then to have a snack, then to put on sunscreen, then to talk to a trail maintenance guy and his wife who had trekked a chain saw up with them to cut through logs on the trail (HUGE thank you was given and a shout out to all the wonderful trail maintainers!! We couldn't do it without you! And I promise to volunteer at some point after I'm all done...), then to fix my poles, then to get water again, then to sit down and have a Subway footlong with Bill Bryson*, then to have another snack, then to have a nice looooooong break in the sun a few miles south of Big Bald. I ate, drank (water), and was merry for a good hour and 40 minutes. Then back to the trail and not many breaks after that. (*daydreaming)



Climbed up to Big Bald (ooooWEE - what a climb!), which was very similar to Max Patch, but higher and more mountainy. (?) Beautiful day, so there were stunning panoramic views. Also, the chipmunks were out today! I must've seen a dozen or so. Or at least a dozen or so little chipmunk butts scampering away...



Kept going, as I wanted to get in another long day. Passed Big Bald Shelter, then headed downhill for a bit before climbing Little Bald. Little Bald isn't really bald, but it is very pointy. All my hiking sounds from climbing it (including my "breathing-whistling" of Wade in the Water) must've been muffled from the other side because when I got to the summit, I paused and took a few breaths. Took a sip of water. Then started back downhill. About 10 steps into my descent, I stepped on a stick and broke it. It made a fairly loud noise.... and so did the young bear about 20 yards away that I had startled. Oh yes. A bear. It took off downhill at a pace that seemed waaaay to fast to maintain uprightedness (word?), and I was sure I wouldn't be seeing that bear again. Non-national-park bears are definitely more scared of us than we are of them. I was absolutely a little freaked out (more than the deer the other night), so I stopped for a second to take it in and then I kept walking, turned up the volume of my Wade in the Water whistling, and began to whack my hiking poles together every 50 paces or so as I went. The bear had headed down and to the left. The trail went down and to the right. Then it turned back towards the bear, passing old hollowed-out trees and big boulders (perfect bear hiding places...?), then it switched back to the right, then back towards the bear direction, and then finally it led way right until right became my new straight. I was headed far away from where the bear was headed.

It was probably 150 lbs and was black. At first I thought (assumed?) it was a dog, but I am now 99% sure I saw a bear. And unless I get to Erwin and see a poster for a lost dog with the following description:

Lost bear-like dog. His name is "Little Bear." Also responds to "Bear," "Bear Dog," "Teddy," or "Wow That Dog Looks Like A Bear." Black fur. Walks like a bear. Growls like a bear. Has been shot at many times because folks think he's a bear. Likes honey...

...unless I see that, then I'm positive I saw a bear.

Check that off the AT list! I wouldn't mind if I didn't see another one. Now I'm camping alone again, and will definitely put the earplugs in again. Will probably dream about bears tonight. Hopefully will NOT wake up to one licking my face...

If you never see this post, it means I was EATEN!!! (night)

(20)


-- Posted from the trail...

Location:Campsite near mile 325